{"id":116,"date":"2024-11-11T07:40:43","date_gmt":"2024-11-11T07:40:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/?p=116"},"modified":"2024-11-15T20:20:49","modified_gmt":"2024-11-15T20:20:49","slug":"the-oldest-turkish-cookbook-printed-with-armenian-letters-yemek-ve-hamur-isleri-tertibi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/?p=116","title":{"rendered":"The Oldest Turkish Cookbook Printed with Armenian Letters: Yemek ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri Tertibi"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Yavuz K\u00f6se (University of Vienna)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Introduction<\/strong><a href=\"#_ftn1\" id=\"_ftnref1\"><strong>[1]<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The notable surge in interest in culinary topics is not just a recent phenomenon post-pandemic: countless cooking shows circulate across all channels; Netflix alone broadcasts a variety of documentaries and cooking shows about foods and beverages from around the world. Cookbooks are selling like hotcakes globally. For instance, if you search for \u201cTurkish Cuisine\u201d on the online sales platform Pandora, the platform lists more than 650 titles. Moreover, the market does not seem to have reached saturation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Among all these, historical cookbooks have their unique charm, offering us perspectives not only in terms of recipes, ingredients, and preparation techniques but also on matters of \u201cmentalities, customs, ideas, daily life, technological developments\u201d. They assist in researching topics such as \u201cculinary history, culinary development, table manners, and social differences\u201d.<a href=\"#_ftn2\" id=\"_ftnref2\">[2]<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In this article, I aim to introduce a historically overlooked and intriguing cookbook: <em>Yemek ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri Tertibi<\/em><strong> <\/strong>[The Arrangement of Cookery and Pastries], published in 1861 in Istanbul. The book is in Turkish with Armenian letters, a script known as Armeno-Turkish. The cookbook addresses a notable gap in previous research on Ottoman\/Turkish cookbooks and establishes new connections with existing culinary literature. Beyond complementing the extant body of work<a href=\"#_ftn3\" id=\"_ftnref3\">[3]<\/a>, the book facilitates an examination of the influence of Ottoman cookbook recipes on Armeno-Turkish books. Furthermore, it allows us to trace the impact of Armeno-Turkish cookbooks on those written in Ottoman Turkish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Genealogy of Ottoman Cookbooks<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When Turgut Kut first undertook to systematically study Ottoman cookbooks and their interrelations in 1985, he proposed the following genealogy in his annotated bibliography on the subject:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"882\" src=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/01-Aciklamali-Yemek-Kitaplari-Kut-1024x882.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-117\" srcset=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/01-Aciklamali-Yemek-Kitaplari-Kut-1024x882.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/01-Aciklamali-Yemek-Kitaplari-Kut-300x258.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/01-Aciklamali-Yemek-Kitaplari-Kut-768x661.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/01-Aciklamali-Yemek-Kitaplari-Kut.jpeg 1036w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Source: Turgut Kut, <em>A\u00e7\u0131klamal\u0131 Yemek Kitaplar\u0131 Bibliyografyas\u0131. Eski Harfli Yazma ve Basma Eserler<\/em>. Ankara 1985, 22.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">According to this, the cookbook titled <em>Melce\u00fc\u2019t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een <\/em>(The Shelter of Cooks), published in 1844, played a central role.<a href=\"#_ftn4\" id=\"_ftnref4\">[4]<\/a> Although Kut hinted at the existence of Armeno-Turkish cookbooks, he did not delve into their relationship with other cookbooks in his genealogy. However, traces of this issue can be found in a master&#8217;s thesis completed in 2019. Ergen\u2019s study briefly chronicles all known Ottoman recipe books alongside those written in Armenian letters, examining the relationship between these cookbooks by focusing solely on their table of contents sections. Ergen admits in her thesis that she included cookbooks published in 1861, 1871, and 1876 without having seen them in person, noting that she had indirect access to the table of contents section of the 1871 and 1876 publications.<a href=\"#_ftn5\" id=\"_ftnref5\">[5]<\/a> She states that the contents of the 1871 publication were provided to her as a \u201clist\u201d and that she used an article by Turgut Kut (2009) that included the table of contents section of the same publication from 1876.<a href=\"#_ftn6\" id=\"_ftnref6\">[6]<\/a> Besides a brief entry in Hasmik Stepanyan\u2019s Bibliography of Armenian-Letter Turkish Books and Periodicals<a href=\"#_ftn7\" id=\"_ftnref7\">[7]<\/a>, Ergen found no information on the cookbook introduced here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Comparative Analysis of Historical Cookbooks<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When comparing the table of contents sections of the 1871 and 1876 editions, inconsistencies in the number and arrangement of recipes are observed. This is particularly striking for the cookbook published in 1871 titled <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131 ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri. <\/em><em>\u015eimdiki Usuller ve Me\u015fhur A\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n Kulland\u0131klar\u0131<\/em> <em>Tertibler \u00dczerine<\/em> (New Cookbook and Pastries. Current Methods and the Arrangements Used by Famous Chefs)<a href=\"#_ftn8\" id=\"_ftnref8\">[8]<\/a>. The conclusions Ergen reached about a book she had not seen herself show differences from what we see in the actual \u201ccontents\u201d section available today. For instance, there are inconsistencies in the number of recipes; Ergen mentions having a list with 180 recipes, yet the table of contents section we have lists only 150 recipes. Furthermore, the table of contents section is not disorganised; rather, it is divided into eight sections, including titles. The book also contains an introductory section explaining why the author wrote the book, unfortunately using only the initials T.V. instead of a full name. The introduction goes as follows:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"717\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/02-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-717x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-118\" style=\"width:479px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/02-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-717x1024.jpeg 717w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/02-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-210x300.jpeg 210w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/02-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-768x1096.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/02-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-1076x1536.jpeg 1076w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/02-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-1435x2048.jpeg 1435w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/02-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-scaled.jpeg 1794w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 717px) 100vw, 717px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/03-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-683x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-119\" style=\"width:478px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/03-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-683x1024.jpeg 683w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/03-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-200x300.jpeg 200w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/03-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-768x1152.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/03-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-1024x1536.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/03-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-1365x2048.jpeg 1365w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/03-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-scaled.jpeg 1707w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"679\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/04-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-679x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-120\" style=\"width:477px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/04-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-679x1024.jpeg 679w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/04-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-199x300.jpeg 199w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/04-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-768x1159.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/04-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-1018x1536.jpeg 1018w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/04-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-1357x2048.jpeg 1357w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/04-Yeni-Yemek-Kitabi-1871-scaled.jpeg 1697w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 679px) 100vw, 679px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As everything changes with time, so have the arrangements of dishes changed in the current era compared to twenty or thirty years ago, and it is for this reason that we have directly embarked on publishing this booklet; although a cookbook was printed previously, its arrangements did not match, making it unsuitable for current chefs, and because that previous cookbook was lacking in another sense of arrangement, we have added an index at the end of this book to facilitate finding the dishes as easily as possible. <a href=\"#_ftn9\" id=\"_ftnref9\">[9]<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This takes us to the cookbook from 1861. A connection can seemingly be made from the titles of both books: <em>Yemek ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri Tertibi<\/em> (\u0130stanbul, 1861) and <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131 ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri<\/em>. (\u0130stanbul, 1871)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"728\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/05-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-728x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-121\" style=\"width:475px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/05-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-728x1024.jpeg 728w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/05-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-213x300.jpeg 213w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/05-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-768x1080.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/05-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-1092x1536.jpeg 1092w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/05-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-1456x2048.jpeg 1456w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/05-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-scaled.jpeg 1820w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 728px) 100vw, 728px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This connection becomes clearer in light of T.V.\u2019s explanations in the introduction. In fact, the 1861 cookbook is disorganized \u2013 that is, recipes are not sorted into specific sections \u2013 and lacks a table of contents section, which would have naturally facilitated the reader\u2019s navigation and use of the book, especially considering that recipes could easily be linked to the sections of the 1871 cookbook. An unfinished, handwritten, alphabetically arranged table of contents page was added to the existing edition, presumably to allow quick access to the recipes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table><tbody><tr><td><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"425\" class=\"wp-image-123\" style=\"width: 300px;\" src=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/06-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-scaled.jpeg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/06-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-scaled.jpeg 1805w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/06-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-212x300.jpeg 212w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/06-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-722x1024.jpeg 722w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/06-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-768x1089.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/06-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-1083x1536.jpeg 1083w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/06-Yemek-ve-Hamur-Isleri-1861-1444x2048.jpeg 1444w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/td><td>Alafranga b\u00f6rek 69 <br>Bitter almond 110 <br>Persian pilaf 21 <br>Quince desserts 60 <br>Quince jam 52-53 <br>Ashura 47 <br>Quiet helva 44 <br>Hunter\u2019s kebab 60 <br>Pear and apple compote 51 <br>Syrup 56 <br>Scorpion fish grill 90 <br>Apricot and plum dessert 50 <br>Creamy crunchy 75 <br>Creamy kadayif 39<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Source: <em>Yemek ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri Tertibi<\/em> (\u0130stanbul, 1861)<br><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When comparing the two books, one can see that 96 out of the total 180 recipes in the 1861 edition also appear in the 1871 book. This corresponds to 64% of the 150 recipes in the <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131<\/em>. Except for one dish, almost no recipes containing alcohol (especially wine) are found in the 1871 edition, and the use of pork fat is also omitted from the \u201cLahana Dolmas\u0131\u201d (\u201cStuffed Cabbage\u201d) recipe in this book. In contrast, the Armenian-Turkish cookbook <em>Miftah\u00fc&#8217;t-tabbahin<\/em> (The Cook\u2019s Key, 1876) contains many recipes involving pork and alcohol. Similarly, the last Turkish cookbook in Armenian letters, <em>M\u00fckemmel Yemek Kitab\u0131<\/em> (The Perfect Cookbook, 1926), does not include any pork recipes, but the section titled \u201cAlafranga Style\u201d contains recipes with wine and rak\u0131.<a href=\"#_ftn10\" id=\"_ftnref10\">[10]<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Let\u2019s return to the relationship between Armeno-Turkish and Ottoman Turkish cookbooks. What is the connection between cookbooks published in 1861 and 1871 in Armenian letters and the oldest printed Ottoman Turkish cookbook from 1844? A comparison of the recipes in the 1861 book (180 recipes) with those in Mehmed K\u00e2mil\u2019s <em>Melce\u00fc&#8217;t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een<\/em> (The Shelter of Cooks, 272 recipes) shows that 69 recipes have identical titles. This corresponds to 38% of the 180 recipes in the 1861 book. On the other hand, a comparison between the recipes in the 1871 book and <em>Melce\u00fc&#8217;t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een<\/em> reveals 52 identical recipe titles, accounting for 35% of the total 150 recipes. Thus, it can be said that there are significant similarities between the recipes in the 1844 and 1861 books.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Another interesting point is the resemblance of the 1871 Armeno-Turkish cookbook to an Ottoman Turkish cookbook first printed in 1880: <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131. \u015eimdiki Usuller ve Me\u015fhur A\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n Kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131 Tertipler \u00dczere bi-Naz\u0131r Ta\u2019amlar\u0131n <\/em>Tertibat\u0131 (Current Methods and the Arrangements Used by Famous Chefs Regarding the Preparation of Unique Dishes).<a href=\"#_ftn11\" id=\"_ftnref11\">[11]<\/a> Not only the titles but also the table of contents of the two books are nearly identical in content and structure. Ergen\u2019s study does not make this connection because it was conducted using a \u201ccontents\u201d section that was not original and, unfortunately, could not realizethat the 1861 Armeno-Turkish cookbook served as a model for the 1871 edition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Comparing the 1861 and 1871 cookbooks with the 1876 <em>Miftah\u00fc\u2019t-tabbahin<\/em>, only 28 out of 180 recipes (about 16%) from the earlier editions are found in <em>Miftah\u00fc\u2019t-tabbahin<\/em> (which contains 750 recipes), representing less than 4% of the recipes in the later publication. In the <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131<\/em> (1871, with 150 recipes), we find a total of 32 recipes. These recipes make up about 4% of the 750 dishes in <em>Miftah\u00fc\u2019t-tabbahin<\/em> and 21% of the 1871 cookbook. Therefore, we can say that only a small portion of the recipes from the 1861 and 1871 cookbooks appear in <em>Miftah\u00fc\u2019t-tabbahin<\/em>. The same applies to the recipes in <em>Melce\u00fc\u2019t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Now, let\u2019s make a comparative analysis in terms of content. For this comparison, I have selected recipes found in the cookbooks dated 1844 (Ottoman), 1861 (Armeno-Turkish), 1871 (Armeno-Turkish), 1876 (Armeno-Turkish), and 1882\/1894 (Ottoman).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">An examination of the recipe texts in this context reveals interesting connections:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The descriptions in the recipes that appear in both the 1861 and 1871 editions are almost identical, with only minor stylistic differences. Other recipes show a more intense editorial hand in terms of style.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Although only about 35% of the recipes from the 1844 and 1861 publications match, the recipes in both books show significant similarities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table><tbody><tr><td><strong><em>Yemek ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri Tertibi, <\/em><\/strong><strong>1861<\/strong><\/td><td><strong><em>Melce\u00fc\u2018t \u1e6cabb\u0101\u1e2b\u012bn, <\/em><\/strong><strong>1844<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><tr><td colspan=\"2\"><strong>Pirinc pa\u1e33lavas\u0131 (Rice baklava)<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Bir \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc erimi\u015f ve k\u00f6p\u00fcy\u00fc al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f <strong>bal<\/strong>; ve bir \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc erimi\u015f <strong>ya\u0121<\/strong>; ve bir &nbsp;\u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc su, ve bir \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcden az ziyade pirinc unu ve bir fincan durulmu\u015f k\u00fcll\u00fc su; bu c\u00fcmlesini bir tencireye \u1e33oyub ate\u015f \u00fcst\u00fcnde keb\u00e7e ile \u1e33ar\u0131\u015ft\u0131rara\u1e33 temam helva gibi \u1e33oyu oldu\u1e33da bir tepsi i\u00e7ine kep\u00e7e ile yal\u0131b furunda <strong>pi\u015firmeli<\/strong>; eyice \u1e33\u0131zard\u0131\u1e33da paklava gibi kesib \u015feker <strong>ekmeli<\/strong>. &nbsp;<\/td><td>Bir \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc erimi\u015f ve k\u00f6p\u00fc\u011f\u00fc al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f&nbsp; <strong>asel<\/strong>&nbsp; ve bir \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc erimi\u015f&nbsp; <strong>r\u00fbgan-\u0131 s\u00e2de&nbsp; <\/strong>ve bir \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc su ve bir \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc&nbsp; <strong>torukluca<\/strong> pirin\u00e7&nbsp; unu ve bir&nbsp; fincan&nbsp; durulmu\u015f keskince&nbsp; k\u00fcll\u00fc su . C\u00fcmlesini bir tencereye vaz birle ate\u015f \u00fcst\u00fcnde&nbsp; kep\u00e7e&nbsp; ile kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131rarak tamam&nbsp; helva&nbsp; gibi koyuldukta bir&nbsp; tepsi&nbsp; i\u00e7ine&nbsp; kep\u00e7e ile yay\u0131p&nbsp; f\u0131r\u0131nda <strong>tabh oluna <\/strong>iyice k\u0131zard\u0131kta \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131p&nbsp; baklava \u015feklinde kesip \u00fczerine&nbsp; \u015feker&nbsp; ekip <strong>ten\u00e2v\u00fcl buyrula<\/strong>. Asel bulunmaz ise k\u0131vaml\u0131ca&nbsp; \u015feker&nbsp; <strong>istimal oluna<\/strong>.<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>A measure of melted and skimmed honey; and a measure of melted butter; and a measure less than a measure of rice flour and a cup of clarified lime water; mix all these in a pot on the fire, stirring with a ladle until it thickens like halva, then spread it with a ladle into a tray and bake in the oven; when it has browned well, cut into baklava pieces and sprinkle with sugar. &nbsp;<\/td><td>Mix a measure of melted and skimmed honey, a measure of melted plain butter, a measure of water, a measure of finely ground rice flour, and a cup of clarified lime water. Combine all in a pot and mix with a ladle over the fire until it thickens like halva, then spread in a tray with a ladle and bake in the oven until well browned, then remove, cut into baklava shapes, sprinkle sugar on top, and serve. If honey is not available, use thick sugar. &nbsp;<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">While the Ottoman version frequently employs Persian compound structures, these are not used in the Armenian-letter Turkish version; aside from this, the amounts and ingredients are nearly identical.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Looking closely at the recipes in the 1871 edition, we can establish a direct connection to the Ottoman Turkish New Cookbook first published in 1880 and subsequently reprinted three times.<a href=\"#_ftn12\" id=\"_ftnref12\">[12]<\/a> The language of the recipes in the 1871 Armeno-Turkish book is almost identical to that of the Ottoman Turkish cookbook. Comparing the two books reveals that the Ottoman version was likely directly transferred from the Armeno-Turkish edition. As shown earlier, even the introduction to the Ottoman cookbook, with a few minor differences, is the same.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table><tbody><tr><td><strong><em>Yemek ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri Tertibi, <\/em><\/strong><strong>1861<\/strong><\/td><td><strong><em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131 <\/em><\/strong><em>ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri. \u015eimdiki Usuller ve Me\u015fhur A\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n Kulland\u0131klar\u0131 Tertibler \u00dczerine <\/em><strong>(1871)<\/strong><\/td><td><strong><em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131<\/em><\/strong><em><br>\u015eimdiki u\u1e63\u016bller ve me\u015fh\u016br a\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131\u00f1 \u1e33ulland\u0131\u0121\u0131 tert\u012bbler \u00fczre b\u012b-ne\u1e93\u012br \u1e6da\u02bf\u0101mlar\u0131\u00f1 tertib\u0101t\u0131<\/em> <strong>(1882\/83)<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><tr><td colspan=\"3\"><strong>G\u00f6zleme<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><tr><td>\u1e2aamuru bir ka\u00e7 yumurta ile say ya\u0121ilen gereyi gibi yo\u0121urdu\u1e33dan so\u0121ra \u00fc\u00e7 taba\u0121a a\u00e7\u0131b aralerine ya\u0121 s\u00fcrerek biri birinin \u00fczerine \u1e33oymal\u0131 ve kya\u0121ad b\u00fcker gibi b\u00fck\u00fcb par\u00e7a par\u00e7a keserek ya\u0121\u0131 di\u015far\u0131 gelmemek i\u00e7\u00fcn uclar\u0131n\u0131 s\u0131k\u0131b kesilmi\u015f taraf\u0131ndan avucun\u0131n i\u00e7inde yass\u0131lad\u0131b merdane ile a\u00e7d\u0131\u1e33dan songra i\u1e33tiza eden i\u00e7i \u1e33oyub iki \u1e33at idub \u00fczerine yumurta saris\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrerek furuna vermeli. &nbsp;<\/td><td><strong>Hamuru bir \u1e33a\u00e7 yumurta, ve say ya\u0121\u0131 ile yo\u0121urub terki terki edib aralar\u0131na ya\u0121 s\u00fcrerek \u00fcst \u00fcste \u1e33omal\u0131, badehu evvela merdane ile ve sonray o\u1e33lavu ile incecik a\u00e7\u0131b i\u00e7ine ya\u0121 ser\u1e57meli, ve o yuf\u1e33ay\u0131 \u00fc\u00e7 d\u00f6rt \u1e33at birbir \u00fcst\u00fcne \u1e33avu\u015fdurub \u1e33ararca kesmeli, ve tavada \u1e33\u0131z\u0121\u0131n ya\u0121 i\u00e7inde pi\u015firmeli.<\/strong> <strong>Bunun peynirlisi ya\u1e2bod \u1e33\u0131ymal\u0131s\u0131 da\u1e2bi olabilir.<\/strong> &nbsp;<\/td><td><strong><em>\u1e2aamur\u0131 birka\u00e7 yumur\u1e6da ve<\/em><\/strong> <strong><em>\u1e63a\u0121 ya\u0121\u0131la yo\u0121urup terki terki<\/em><\/strong> <strong><em>\u0117d\u00fcp aralar\u0131na ya\u0121 s\u00fcrerek \u00fcst \u00fcste koymal\u0131 ba\u02bfdehu merd\u0101ne ile ve \u1e63o\u00f1ra oklava ile ince a\u00e7up ince ya\u0121 serpmeli ve ol yufkay\u0131&nbsp; \u00fc\u00e7<\/em><\/strong><strong> <em>d\u00f6rt kat birbiri \u00fcst\u00fcne kavu\u015fd\u0131rup kararca kesmeli ve \u1e6davada k\u0131z\u0121\u0131n ya\u0121 i\u00e7inde pi\u015f\u00fcrmeli<\/em><\/strong> <strong><em>bun\u0131\u00f1 peynirlisi y\u0101\u1e2b\u016bd k\u0131mal\u0131 da\u1e2b\u012b olabilir<\/em><\/strong> &nbsp;<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>After kneading the dough with a few eggs as necessary, roll it out into three layers, spreading butter between each layer, stacking them, rolling like a scroll, cutting into pieces, pinching the ends to keep the butter from escaping, flattening with the hand and then rolling out with a rolling pin, placing the required filling, folding into two layers, brushing with egg yolk, and baking in the oven.<\/td><td>Knead the dough with a few eggs and as much butter as needed, layer by layer, spreading butter between layers, then stack them on top of each other. After rolling out first with a rolling pin and then with a thinner rolling pin, spread thin butter on it, fold the dough three or four times on top of each other, cut into size, and fry in a pan with hot butter. It can also be made with cheese or minced meat.<\/td><td>Knead the dough with a few eggs and the right amount of butter, layer by layer, spread butter between the layers, stack them, then roll out with a rolling pin, and finally with a thinner rolling pin, spread thin butter, fold the dough three or four times on top of each other, cut into size, and fry in a pan with hot butter. It can also be made with cheese or minced meat. <strong><em>&nbsp;<\/em><\/strong><\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Conclusions<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Now, it is time to reconsider Turgut Kut&#8217;s proposed genealogy of Ottoman cookbooks by incorporating the Armeno-Turkish cookbooks discussed in this study. This inclusion significantly expands Kut&#8217;s genealogy, revealing a more intricate and interwoven relationship between the culinary traditions recorded in Ottoman Turkish and those in Armenian letters. This expanded genealogy offers a more comprehensive understanding of the historical development of Ottoman culinary literature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"543\" src=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/07-Secere-Turgut-Kut-Guncellestirilmis-1024x543.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-124\" style=\"width:677px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/07-Secere-Turgut-Kut-Guncellestirilmis-1024x543.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/07-Secere-Turgut-Kut-Guncellestirilmis-300x159.jpg 300w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/07-Secere-Turgut-Kut-Guncellestirilmis-768x408.jpg 768w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/07-Secere-Turgut-Kut-Guncellestirilmis-1536x815.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/07-Secere-Turgut-Kut-Guncellestirilmis-2048x1087.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Based on Turgut Kut, <em>A\u00e7\u0131klamal\u0131 Yemek Kitaplar\u0131 Bibliyografyas\u0131. Eski Harfli Yazma ve Basma Eserler<\/em>. Ankara 1985, 22.<br><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The examination of Yemek ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri Tertibi (1861) highlights the significant yet overlooked role of Armeno-Turkish cookbooks in the culinary literature of the Ottoman Empire. This cookbook fills a gap in the historiography of Ottoman\/Turkish cookbooks and establishes critical connections between various culinary texts across different languages and scripts. By comparing the recipes and content with other historical cookbooks, it becomes evident that there was substantial interaction and mutual influence between cookbooks written in Ottoman Turkish and those in Armenian letters. Finally, considering Hovhannes Karnetsi&#8217;s work on an extensive cookbook including Armenian and Ottoman dishes in Istanbul during the 1820s, it becomes evident that the history of Ottoman cookbooks will always remain incomplete without incorporating such texts into research. <a href=\"#_ftn13\" id=\"_ftnref13\">[13]<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref1\" id=\"_ftn1\">[1]<\/a> I would like to sincerely thank Fr Simon Bayan, the librarian in charge of the Library of the Mekhitarist Congregation in Vienna, for the opportunity to review the book. Many thanks also to Ani Sargsyan and H\u00fclya \u00c7elik for their support and corrections.&nbsp; A Turkish version of my prestantion at the Turkologentag 2023 has been published in <em>Yemek ve K\u00fclt\u00fcr<\/em> 75,1 (2024): 60-66. The cookbook will be published by Aras Publishing House in 2025.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref2\" id=\"_ftn2\">[2]<\/a> Henry Notaker, <em>A History of Cookbooks. From Kitchen to Page over Seven Centuries <\/em>(Oakland, California 2022), ix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref3\" id=\"_ftn3\">[3]<\/a> Turgut Kut, <em>A\u00e7\u0131klamal\u0131 Yeme Kitaplar\u0131 Bibliyografyas\u0131. Eski Harfli Yazma ve Basma Eserler<\/em> (Ankara: Feryal Bas\u0131mevi,1985), and Turgut Kut, \u201cA Bibliography of Turkish Cookery Books up to 1927\u201d, in <em>Turkish Cuisine<\/em>, ed. Arif Bilgin, \u00d6zge Samanc\u0131 (Ankara: Ministry of Culture and Tourism, 2008), 329-337; Sidar, Ergen, <em>Son D\u00f6nem Osmanl\u0131 Yemek K\u00fcl\u00fct\u00fcr\u00fcnde Ermeni Mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n Katk\u0131s\u0131: Ermeni Harfli T\u00fcrk\u00e7e Yemek Kitaplar\u0131<\/em> (\u0130stanbul: Libra Kitap, 2019); \u00d6zge Samanc\u0131, \u201cOsmanl\u0131 ve Cumhuriyet D\u00f6nemlerinde Yemek Kitaplar\u0131\u201d, <em>Anatolia: Turizm Ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar\u0131 Dergisi<\/em>m, 31,2 (2020): 205-210.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref4\" id=\"_ftn4\">[4]<\/a> Mehmed K\u00e2mil, <em>Melce\u00fc\u2019t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een. A\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n S\u0131\u011f\u0131na\u011f\u0131 (\u0130nceleme \u2013 Metin \u2013 T\u0131pk\u0131bas\u0131m)<\/em>, eds. G\u00fcnay Kut and Turgut Kut (\u0130stanbul: T.C. T\u00fcrkiye Yazma Eserler Kurumu, 2015).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref5\" id=\"_ftn5\">[5]<\/a> Ergen, <em>Ermeni Harfli T\u00fcrk\u00e7e Yemek Kitaplar\u0131<\/em>, 62-65.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref6\" id=\"_ftn6\">[6]<\/a> Turgut Kut, \u201cA\u015f\u00e7\u0131larn Anahtar\u0131-Miftah\u00fc\u2019t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een\u201d, <em>Yemek ve K\u00fclt\u00fcr<\/em> 17 (2009): 119-127.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref7\" id=\"_ftn7\">[7]<\/a> Hasmik Stepanyan, <em>Ermeni Harfli T\u00fcrk\u00e7e Kitaplar ve S\u00fcreli Yay\u0131nlar Bibliyografyas\u0131 (1727-1968)<\/em> (\u0130stanbul: Turkuaz Yay\u0131nlar\u0131, 2005, 118.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref8\" id=\"_ftn8\">[8]<\/a> [T. V.], <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131 ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri. \u015eimdiki Usuller ve Me\u015fhur A\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n Kulland\u0131klar\u0131 Tertibler \u00dczerine<\/em> (\u0130stanbul: Tabhaneyi T. Dividcyan, 1871).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref9\" id=\"_ftn9\">[9]<\/a> [T. V.], <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131 ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri. \u015eimdiki Usuller ve Me\u015fhur A\u015f\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n Kulland\u0131klar\u0131 Tertibler \u00dczerine<\/em> (\u0130stanbul: Tabhaneyi T. Dividcyan, 1871).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref10\" id=\"_ftn10\">[10]<\/a> Va\u011finag P\u00fcrad, <em>M\u00fckemmel Yemek Kitab\u0131<\/em> 1926 (\u0130stanbul: Aras, 2010), 175-6, 178, 184, 188.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref11\" id=\"_ftn11\">[11]<\/a> \u00d6zge Samanc\u0131, <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131<\/em> (\u0130stanbul: Yemek ve K\u00fclt\u00fcr, 2016).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref12\" id=\"_ftn12\">[12]<\/a> Samanc\u0131, <em>Yeni Yemek Kitab\u0131<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"#_ftnref13\" id=\"_ftn13\">[13]<\/a> Greta Grigoryan, \u0533\u0580\u0565\u057f\u0561 \u0533\u0580\u056b\u0563\u0578\u0580\u0575\u0561\u0576,&nbsp;\u00ab\u0540\u0561\u0575 \u056d\u0578\u0570\u0561\u0576\u0578\u0581\u056b\u0576 \u0576\u057e\u056b\u0580\u057e\u0561\u056e \u0540\u0578\u057e\u0570\u0561\u0576\u0576\u0565\u057d \u0531\u0574\u056b\u0580\u0561\u0575\u0561\u0576-\u0544\u0561\u0574\u056b\u056f\u0578\u0576\u0575\u0561\u0576 \u053f\u0561\u0580\u0576\u0565\u0581\u0578\u0582 \u0561\u0577\u056d\u0561\u057f\u0578\u0582\u0569\u0575\u0578\u0582\u0576\u0576\u0565\u0580\u0568\u00bb, \u053c\u0580\u0561\u0562\u0565\u0580 \u0570\u0561\u057d\u0561\u0580\u0561\u056f\u0561\u056f\u0561\u0576 \u0563\u056b\u057f\u0578\u0582\u0569\u0575\u0578\u0582\u0576\u0576\u0565\u0580\u056b, \u0570\u0574\u0580\u20247, \u0535\u0580\u0587\u0561\u0576, \u0540\u0561\u0575\u056f\u0561\u056f\u0561\u0576 \u054d\u054d\u0540 \u0533\u0531 \u0570\u0580\u0561\u057f\u0561\u0580\u0561\u056f\u0579\u0578\u0582\u0569\u0575\u0578\u0582\u0576,&nbsp;1986, \u0567\u057b &nbsp;70-74 (Greta Grigoryan, \u201c The works of Hovhannes Amirayan-Mamikonian dedicated to Armenian cuisine\u201d, <em>Herald of Social Sciences<\/em> 7 (1986): 70-74).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Yavuz K\u00f6se (University of Vienna) Introduction[1] The notable surge in interest in culinary topics is not just a recent phenomenon post-pandemic: countless cooking shows circulate across all channels; Netflix alone broadcasts a variety of documentaries and cooking shows about foods and beverages from around the world. Cookbooks are selling like hotcakes globally. For instance, if &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/?p=116\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">The Oldest Turkish Cookbook Printed with Armenian Letters: Yemek ve Hamur \u0130\u015fleri Tertibi<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[34,36,35,37],"coauthors":[],"class_list":["post-116","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-armeno-turkish-cookbooks","tag-armenian-cookbooks","tag-cultural-heritage","tag-food-culture","tag-yemek-ve-hamur-isleri-tertibi"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/116","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=116"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/116\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":480,"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/116\/revisions\/480"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=116"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=116"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=116"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/atlas.univie.ac.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcoauthors&post=116"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}